Baker Gramercy is a small artisan bakery on Adelaide Road in Berhampore, on the southern side of Wellington, a short stroll around the corner from Newtown. Its name carries two meanings: gramercy means great thanks, and it is also the New York neighbourhood where the founder, James Whyte, completed a culinary course. James runs the bakery today with Grainne and Eunan, and the approach rests on slow food principles, natural fermentation and a preference for long cuts over short cuts. The coffee is excellent too, and the morning opening often draws a queue of locals collecting loaves, pastries and an espresso.
The shop was fitted out in 2023 with natural timber and simple geometry, creating a warm, light filled room beneath a high gabled, vaulted ceiling that pulls in daylight. The counter is clad in faceted timber and brass panels inspired by the folded layers of a laminated croissant, display shelving pairs timber frames with black metal racks, and the baking area stays in view so customers can watch the work. Seating is limited to a counter ledge in the front window, which makes this more a place to call in than to settle for the morning, although the staff are friendly and unpretentious and the uncluttered interior is a pleasant spot to wait.
Bread is the foundation of the place. The sourdough is slowly fermented from little more than flour, water and salt: the Campagne is a country style house loaf made with wheat and rye, the Oat is a creamy oat porridge sourdough, and the Seed packs sesame, poppy, sunflower, pumpkin, linseed and caraway into a loaf the bakery calls a meal in itself. A hand crafted baguette, made with a touch of honey, completes the regular range. Orders placed online before midnight are ready to collect from the counter the next morning, which saves a wait when the shop is busy.
Croissants are the bakery’s calling card. Made with New Zealand milled wheat and butter, the plain croissant is the top seller, and the range extends to pain au chocolat with Valrhona chocolate, an almond croissant soaked in rum syrup and filled with frangipane, a chocolate almond version, a ham and Gruyère croissant with honey cured smoked ham, and a jalapeño cheddar croissant with pickled chillies that is a favourite with nearby restaurateurs. Canelés also appear on the counter, and the bakery gives back to its neighbourhood, sponsoring the local arts trail and supporting the playspace at Berhampore School.
Address: 465 Adelaide Road, Berhampore, Wellington 6023
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